Post and Courier – June 2024 – For Grandpa on Father’s Day
As we are now ebbing into the summer months, June gives us the opportunity to celebrate with, or in remembrance of, the father figures that impacted our life. Family dynamics can vary from implied social norms and my upbringing certainly deviated more than slightly from that standard. Since the time I was a few months old until I launched from the proverbial nest, I lived with my grandparents.
My grandfather fought in World War II, could fix about anything and had a way about him that always put a smile on the faces of others. Without initially realizing it, he taught me a tremendous amount about life and about myself. As this will be my first Father’s Day without him, my plans revolve around paying homage (through the consumption of meaningful whiskies) to the man that helped shape my life.
I believe whiskies, like people, have personalities and these tend to change and evolve as we age. Being a Navy man, if my grandfather could have a whiskey exemplify the first third of his life, it would be something that had some kick (barrel strength or over-proof), a bit rough around the edges and have some of that rye bite contained in the mash bill. Thus, my first pour of the day will be Backbone Bourbon Uncut ($65).
This “straight” bourbon whiskey includes a healthy amount of corn along with a whopping 21% rye, adding that lemon pepper spice, and 5% malted barley. My particular bottle states a heady 59.3% abv (alcohol by volume) or 116.6 proof. Although many consumers appreciate these high proof bourbons, I find adding a bit of distilled water seems to not only soften the alcohol but also opens up the bouquet to allow for greater appreciation. There are notes of vanilla, caramel, toasted nut and an interesting buttered sugar cookies fresh out of the oven.
The next third of life could be represented by a whiskey that has a bit less fiery alcohol but still sturdy and overt characteristics. I was drawn to a ‘wheated’ bourbon for this selection as these whiskies tend to have a smoother and sweeter disposition, assuming that we tend to mellow a bit as we age.
Our choice, Redemption Wheated Bourbon ($50) has just enough corn to be considered a bourbon (51%) with an extremely high 45% winter wheat and 4% malted barley. Although these wheat-heavy mash bills offer a sweet smooth quality making them easier to consume, our friend has a 48% abv (96 proof) that shows it still has some coal in the engine. The spirit offers graham cracker, marshmallow and wood shop notes along with a sweet toasted Home Pride honey top toasted wheat bread finish.
The final third sees more introspection, a complex seasoned older man reflecting back on his life and appreciating the more subtle nuances afforded to him. With my grandfather coming from Irish heritage, an aged Irish whiskey emerged as a clear choice. There are many styles of Irish whiskey, but for craftmanship, age, complexity and tradition, a pot-stilled style fit all the components that reflected my grandfather in his later years.
The so-called ‘spot whiskies’ came from the practice of using a dob of paint on the cask by the distiller to indicate the potential aging ability of spirit within; a blue spot for 8-year-old, a green spot for 10 years, a yellow spot for 12-year-old, and red spot for 15 years. Although my grandfather was in his late 90s when he passed, the oldest age designation was not my choice. Remember, my concept was about personality, not just age.
Of all the Irish whiskies I have had the pleasure of sipping, the single pot stilled Yellow Spot ($135) from Mitchell and Son gained my attention. The spirit is distilled at Midelton Distillery and contains a combination of both malted and unmalted barley in the mash bill. For added complexity and integration it spends 12 years in a combination of American bourbon barrels, Spanish sherry butts, and Spanish Malaga casks.
All this casking and aging leads to a level of complexity that necessitates continued sniffs and sips to tease out all the differing congeners (flavor compounds) contained within. There are elements of floral, fruit, coffee, honey, sweet baking spices, fresh hay and a slight cereal note. The palate has an added ocean element that made me think of my grandfather reflecting on his years in the Navy, adding validity to my selection.
This whiskey, like my grandpa, remains in a category of its own and must be enjoyed to be fully understood. I can be so presumptuous to proclaim that, also like my grandfather, everyone who had the rare opportunity to experience it, will never be able to forget the impression left on us. Unlike the patriarch of our family, however, I can revisit the whiskey any time I have the urge.
It was truly not until I became a parent myself that I began to appreciate the wisdom and teachings of my father and grandfather. So, I implore you to not allow this day to pass by disregarded but rather embrace the time you and your father spent or can spend together. Raise a glass in their honor and / or their memory to celebrate Father’s Day along with me.