Morning News – January 2025 – Reflections of Bottles Past

A wise man once told me as you get older the days pass slower and the years more quickly. This has proven true as the New Year, and the new college football playoffs, are already upon us. Although this time of year represents a fresh beginning, it seems to encourage retroactive reflection on the year past.

As I look back through all the laughter, tears, celebrations and regrets, I found myself imbibing on some sort of mood enhancing liquid to augment those moments. So, my reminiscence involves revisiting previous bottles to evoke personal memories, thus aiding my existentialistic need for filling the new year with some meaning. Granted, Jean Paul Satre would shun this endeavor as absurd but the Maslow side of my soul still yearns toward self-actualization.

Grandpa

Emerging from the rabbit hole of my neophytic philosophy, our yesteryear journey begins with saying goodbye to my beloved grandpa. After a full honor guard burial at the Cemetery of the Alleghenies, my emotions were all over the place. There are times of despondency that you can choose a beverage that welcomes the sadness or that chases it away. I chose the latter which was Tannat.

The Tannat grape historically has a reputation of being rustic and tannic but with time, softens to something complex and special. This wine, much like my grandfather’s insight, became something I appreciated with each recurring taste. Unfortunately, the wine fills only a small portion of that void.

Beaufort

Memory also stirs of pleasant recollections from my journeys to Beaufort. Seemingly too few visits render justification for my adopted family to encourage seafood gluttony. A myriad of different white wines have supported these culinary orgies but I have recently taken to sipping from my Margaret River producing friends down under. Not only do they represent great value, but Australian wines may be spared from the impending tariffs.

Washington State

to the incredible assistance of my Pacific Northwest friends, a long-awaited trip to explore Washington wine country became a reality. One could write a book on all the amazing landscapes, people and wines nestled in seemingly every nook and cranny of those underappreciated regions. Although I enjoyed the wines from multiple producers, there was a motif of well-made French varieties even in the most unusual places by even micro producers.

Wine Competitions

I was also fortunate enough to judge a few wine competitions this past year including the American Wine Society and Winemaker Magazine, which got me thinking about this aspect of my wine journey. Becoming a wine judge opened up a new world of hybrids, non-vinifera and fruit wines, which most wine snobs would scoff over. Like a tick on a coon hound, this makes me further clinch to my philosophical beliefs that pretentiousness continues to be one of the elements killing the wine industry today. These categories represent some fantastic quality-driven examples that should not be overlooked, for several obvious reasons.

Coco

On a much sadder note, my loving companion for over a decade, Coco, got sick and had to be euthanized. Although we have all experienced loss in many different ways, this one hit me harder than I could have ever anticipated. We did not realize how much our pet was woven into the fabric of our life until she was no longer there.

The wine I chose for this memory remains one of my “go-to” contemplation wines, Pinot Noir. For whatever reason this particular variety seems to unlock memory and emotion, encouraging introspection. With the loss of my grandfather, I chose to focus on happy memories, but this time I lowered my guard and welcomed the sadness.

Clemson Graduate

Another event that spurred pride, happiness and a few tears was watching my son return to Clemson for his senior year. Quite honestly, my son’s preferences for imbibements do not include those of the grape varieties but, nonetheless wanted to mark this occasion with some symbolic liquid trope.

Perhaps a bit of a representational reach for my soon-to-be Clemson alum, I chose a color coordinated skin contact wine from the Republic of Georgia. This trendy category is referred to as an “Orange Wine” after the color change due to slight oxidation. Even though my son tried a sip and responded with his classic line, “I’m good,” I finished the rest in his honor and his stead.

Yadkin Valley

It had been over a decade since I visited and tasted through the Yadkin Valley wine area of North Carolina. Thanks to the American Wine Society conference being in Winston-Salem this year, I had a chance to do just that.

In this very short span of time, Yadkin Valley has emerged as one of the most exciting wine regions in the southeast. Not only are there a wide range of varieties and styles, the quality of the wines are only surpassed by the wholesome character and friendliness of its producers. I am particularly excited that some winemakers are taking the opportunity to blend some French and Italian varieties with eyebrow raising results.

So, looking back on the past year, I have much to celebrate and contemplate when pouring my “reflection” wines. Although my liver may yearn for concession toward a dry January, my soul beckons for emotional recompence. I am fairly certain that the resolution I seek does not lie at the bottom of a temperance cocktail.

Bouza Tannat 2022          Montevideo, Uruguay                  $25

One first notices the dark ruby color and aromas of black fruit (blackberry), baking spice (anise), moist tobacco and cedar box. The palate has a nervy acidity with flavors of blackberry, currant, and sweet baking spice. The tannin structure is medium grained, silky and not overly mouth-drying. The finish has a slightly warming alcohol nuance and pie spice component. This wine loves grilled meat, roast beast, or simply a warm fire and contemplation.

Xanadu Sauvignon Blanc 2023                  Margaret River, Australia             $30

This Sauvignon Blanc (74%) and Semillon (26%) bland displays the attributes of both varieties. The nose has elements of fresh cut boxwood hedge, tropical (guava), citrus (lemon / lime), lemongrass, and a pineapple cream note. The palate is dry with a bright tangy acid core surrounded with the aforementioned fruits hanging like decorations on a Christmas tree. This is an easy transition for the Pinot Grigio loving acidophile. Pair this with grilled white fish, pan seared scallops or goat cheese appetizers.

Tinte Estate Mourvèdre                Red Mountain, Washington        $55

This 100% Mourvèdre has a nose of roasted fruit compôte (blackberry, black currant, plum), dried black tea leaves, freshly sharpened pencil, and wet leaf pile after a rainstorm. The dry palate has the same fruit medley and savoriness as the nose with an added cracked peppercorn element. The tannins are evident but fine grained and not obtrusive. Pair with grilled animal and cured meats.

JOLO Crimson Creek Chambourcin 2023                North Carolina                 $50

This French-American interspecific hybrid is also one of the few Teinturier grapes, where the flesh also has red pigment. The wine has a complex nose with aromas of red and black fruit (raspberry, dark cherry, mulberry), baking spice (vanilla, allspice), savory spice (black pepper), and leather in a cedar box. The palate has a crunchy red fruit acidity and the baking spice note further emerges. The finish is long with baking spice and fruit comingled. Pair with pork tenderloin with berry sauce, deep fried turkey or BBQ chicken.

Chehalem Pinot Noir 2022                          Chehalem Mountain, OR                            $30

The slightly restrained nose has complex red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, cranberry), spice (white pepper and allspice) and a wet mossy earthy note. The palate is dry with crunchy acidity, medium body and evident fine grained sticky tannins. There are flavors of red fruit (cherry, strawberry), baking spice (all spice) and finishes with a slight toasted note. Pair this with wild mushroom risotto (porcini, morrells), quail, and country pâté.

Zhuka-Sano Rkatsiteli                   Alazani River Valley, Georgia                      $25

Pronounced as r-Kats-ih-Tell-lee, the wine displays a color like sunlight striking a piece of amber. The nose has aromas of concentrated orchard fruit (nectarine, peach), savory dried herbs, celery seed, toasted filbert nuts, sweet baking spice and a blossom note. The dry palate has nuances of citrus pith (nectarine), toasted nut, black tea, and a brined type of acidity. The finish is medium in length and clean with persistent textured tannins lingering. Pair with Georgian pork dishes, soft creamy cheeses and cured meat charcuterie.

Castello Barone Setoso 2022      Yadkin Valley, North Carolina     $35

A blend of Montepulciano with some added Petit Verdot creates a wine greater than the sum of its parts. The nose boasts berry compote (cherry, blackberry, elderberry), freshly roasted and ground cacao bean, black peppercorn, leather and a hauntingly sexy purple floral note. The palate is dry with a sturdy tart zippy acidity. The fruit flavors lean more acid-centric on the palate (cranberry, strawberry, tart cherry), dark cocoa, and a pleasant leather, tobacco and savory spice (peppercorn) finish. Pair with rib roast, cassoulet, venison au poivre.