The Spring weather has arrived and, along with it, the evidence of nature’s fertility, pollen. Although this yellow-green persistent dust cloud hangs heavy over the region, I still yearn to be outside in these near-perfect temperatures. With nose running and hankey in hand, I plan on spending an inordinate amount of time admiring the glowing embers of my grill.

One cannot merely stand and chuck animal parts on the open flame without some sort of beverage in hand. Although we all love a can or bottle of suds as much as the next guy, this season indulge me by selecting some juice of the vine to accentuate your grilling prowess.

As many instantly conjure visions of “pasture meat” at the mention of outdoor cooking, pairing white wines with grilled fare often gets overlooked. Interestingly enough, I tend to select wines that may not be as mainstream for these types of pairings. My motivation rests not with purposeful obscurity but rather to select wines that actually work, unlike the innumerable periodical scrawls bathed in wine pairing mediocrity.

Godello

The first wine has the potential to be one of the best white varieties in all of Spain. Godello (go-day-yo) claims Galicia, northwest Spain, as its homeland but some plantings can also be found in Portugal as Gouveio. Although almost extinct in the 1970’s, Godello has enjoyed a well-deserved revival and continues to gain market popularity. The resulting wines from this still rare variety have an interesting smoky minerality, sturdy acid backbone and overt brined citrus notes but with an interesting texture. I imagine blending Sauvignon Blanc, with some Chablis and a dash of Viognier to attempt to explain all this grape offers the senses.

Gruner

My next wine is my go-to white wine when pairing with a broad spectrum of grilled and potentially bitter vegetables. The native hallmark grape of Austria, Gruner Veltliner, has the uncanny ability to pair with foods that no other wines seem to play well with. Vegetables like asparagus and brussels sprouts are notorious wine killers but Gruner seems to handle them without issue. When grilling seafood and vegetables a slight char can add bitterness to your food but this wine with its overt tropical fruit and interesting white pepper seem to erase those vegetal and bitter notes making it a gamechanger.

Tempranillo

For those insisting on searing something that is “red and dead” on their food pyre, I have a few wines to pair with your selections as well. Tempranillo is woven together with Spanish food culture and has long been associated with grilled foods. This grape is grown all over Spain and you may be familiar with the versions seen in Rioja. The wines made from this varietal vary depending on soils, weather, age, vessel used (oak, stainless, etc.), but they always seem to have interesting fruit elements, herbal notes and an easy to tolerate tannin structure.

Our version of Tempranillo comes not from across the pond but from the state of Oregon, which now boasts over 400 acres planted in state. Some of the cooler climate areas and higher elevations compared to Rioja give these wines their own personality distinct from their Spanish brethren. Although Pinot Noir is still the king of red varieties in Oregon, Tempranillo has proven worthy of the vineyard space allotted to it.

Nebbiolo

Most regions of Italy have a long history of an “over-the-fire” cooking culture and there are probably over a hundred red varieties that would pair with our backyard prepared charred meat. Serendipitously, selecting a wine for this slot coincided with a Florence Wine and Food VIP selection that is happily drinking well above the price point. This happenstance led me to the selection of a Nebbiolo wine from Piedmonte, Italy.

Nebbiolo, although lighter in color on the appearance, can show high acid and tight tannins. The traditional styles were made in a way that made them almost unapproachable for at least a decade. Modern techniques help the tannins and aromatics integrate more quickly and therefore drinkable much younger. Although they can be enjoyed sooner, they still benefit from foods high in protein and/or fat to help bind those tannins and give your mouth and tongue a well-deserved rest.

So, as you brave the allergy-inducing clouds of pollen dust swirling around as you attempt to play grill master, raise a glass of wine. Although you may feel a bit bougie turning away from beer, know that these juices will not only wash away that pollen from your palate but pair much better with your grilled feast.

Suggested Wines

Valdesil Montenovo Godello 2022           Valdeorras, Spain            $17

The wine has aromas of lemon, pineapple, citrus blossom, melon rind, and a fresh herbal note (sage). The palate is dry with a mineral laden persistent acidity and noticeable increase in viscosity. The flavors mirror the nose with added lemon curd and brined citrus components. Pair with grilled seafood (shrimp with lime juice, sea bass) or just a chill and sip while prepping the grill.

Martin Sepp Gruner Veltliner 2022          Niederosterreich, Austria             $15

This 100% Gruner Veltliner has aromas of orchard fruit (apple, pear), a citrus note, leafy herbs, and white pepper spice. The palate is dry with apple, lime pith, tangerine and a brined mineral note. The wine will pair well with everything from grilled vegetables, brined pork chops or even grilled swordfish with tarragon butter.

Compris Vineyard Moonlit Sky Tempranillo 2021    Chehalem Mountains, Oregon   $50

The wine has overt aromatics of blue and black fruit, dried crushed herbs (lavender, thyme, tea leaf), and leather. The palate is dry with tart acidity, medium body and a well-integrated subdued tannin structure. The palate continues with dark fruit, seasoned with dried herbs. There is an added blood orange and baking spice on the finish. This wine would pair well with less fatty cuts of meat (skirt and hanger steak), cumin rubbed lamb or even portobellos.

Matteo Correggia Roero 2020      Piedmonte, Italy              $16

This 100% Nebbiolo is made across the river from some of its high-priced cousins, thus a value for us. The wine has a typical nose of sweet pitch, tobacco, red fruit (currant, cherry), floral notes (violet)and a tobacco box note. The palate is dry with mouth-watering acidity, and an overt tannin structure that will tone down with the addition of some animal protein. These wines often appear lighter in color but make no mistake, this is a muscular wine. Pair with beef brisket, ribeye or wild boar.; it loves earthy, mushroom dishes as well.