Although I embrace all the seasons and celebrate most holidays, Autumn holds a special place in my heart. I’m not quite certain if the magic rests with the cool crispness as a welcomed rest from summer’s heat, or the inexplicable environmental aromas that are ever-present in the Autumn air. Perhaps it lies in the dishes and culinary delights that seem to only find our tables during this time of year. Whatever the reason, the fall season is upon us and with it comes endless justifications for sipping some juice and enjoying all Autumn has to offer.

I try to spend as much time as I can in the “Low Country,” especially this time of year. The bounty from the sea is a big motivation for many of my fall seafood cuisines. Some of the best fishing occurs with the start of cooler weather so I prepare my recipes for Redfish and Trout, bait a hook and hope for the best.

These fish can be prepared in a myriad of ways, and if sea gods are with us, the oven, frier and grill will all be working to prepare our saltwater deliciousness. For that reason, I need a wine that will not overtake the delicate nature of the baked dish, but have the acidity and body to stand up to the fried and grilled versions. Van Duzer Vineyards Estate Pinot Gris 2023 Van Duzer AVA, Oregon ($25) fits this perfectly with delicate orchard fruit to accompany the sweetness of the fish and a sturdy acid core that hold up with any fried seafood. Oregonian Pinot Gris is quickly becoming one of my “go to” varieties for my white wine occasions.

Although blue crabs are more abundant in South Carolina during the summer months, the bigger crabs are caught starting in October. The cooler water temperatures are key to landing some of these succulent beauties. Catching, cooking and picking crab remains a right of passage in these parts, and I humbly comply.

Much like our local fish, crab can be prepared in a multitude of ways so we need a white wine that will stand up to the richness of the crab meat but also be refreshing and cleansing between bites. Goose Ridge g3 Chardonnay 2025 Goose Gap AVA, Washington State ($15) was a recent local-store find that drinks happily above its price point.

The orchard and citrus fruit, baking spices and toasted notes all play well with the crab flavors. The body is evidently viscous, so if you believe in pairing by weight, this checks that box. Finally, the tangy nature to the acidity provides a palate lift keeping the combination from feeling too heavy or clunky.

Continuing with the seafood motif, the Carolinas have the best shrimp anywhere on the east coast. The popular summer shrimp season yields more (brown) shrimp but the fall season has the larger and tastier white shrimp. As Bubba taught us, there are infinite ways to prepare shrimp and almost endless wines you can pair with these little crustaceans.

My choice of McCollum Heritage 91 Rosé 2023 Chehalem Mountains, Oregon ($33) came about not only because this wine is incredibly versatile, or even as an Autumn campfire sipper but also as a nod to the beginning of basketball season. NBA star CJ McCollum was bitten by the wine bug and purchased a 318-acre vineyard property in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Through a partnership with Adelsheim Vineyard, this brand is pushing out some good juice. The rosé is 100% Pinot Noir with crunchy red fruit and an absolute pleasure to sip.

Although the seafood is great this time of year, much of my menu shifts to sturdier fare. This is the season for slow cooked meats like pot roast, braised short ribs, venison and even lamb shanks; and who doesn’t love a good shank. There are many good arguments about pairing lighter wines or even whites with some of these foods but I conformed to the masses with my choice of Goose Ridge Among the Giants Merlot 2021 Goose Gap AVA, Washington State ($22).

The grapes are planted on a slope adjacent to Red Mountain and the wine sees 18 months in French Oak. The result is ridiculous at this price point, with torrefaction notes, dark fruit (blackberry, blueberry) with a touch of allspice and silky tannins. This has dinner party wine written all over it.

My final selection has a bit to do with food but more so the milieu of Autumn. With the slight chill and the aforementioned unmistakable seasonal aromas, I find this time of year lends to more moments of quiet contemplation. Although I preach to drink outside your comfort zone, I admittedly turn to Pinot Noir for my periods of introspection.

I do love Oregon for Pinot but there are some cooler areas of California that also do a great job. Wente Riva Ranch Pinot Noir 2023 Arroyo Seco, Monterey ($35), proves this to be the case as the vineyards are strongly affected by Pacific maritime influences. Classic red fruit (currant, bruised strawberry), spices (cinnamon stick, clove) and earthy nuances akin to a leaf pile after a rain and freshly sharpened pencil make this a hauntingly good example of what cool climate Pinot can offer.

So, as you welcome the cooler weather, seasonal foods and peaceful moments, remember to add some juice of the vine to accompany your Autumn enjoyment. The hustle and bustle of the holiday season will soon be upon us, so relish this time of year and shamelessly exploit all it has to offer.