Post and Courier – March 2025 – Use Wine to Spring into the Season
Even though Spring lacks football and most major holidays, the season remains one of my favorites. Along with the joy of watching nature reemerge from her slumber, the more tolerable temperatures encourage mandatory “porch time” while the grill beckons for attention.
You may find the mention of Spring a bit premature, especially if you subscribe to the predictions of that furry little Pennsylvania weather prognosticator. Much to my chagrin, even our southern version General Beauregard Lee of Jackson Georgia predicted six more weeks of Winter; or as we know it, bipolar weather. Nonetheless, I refute their forecasts and have moved into the popping and pouring of Spring wines.
One of my most therapeutic indulgences is spending some time relaxing on the back porch. Seemingly overly simplistic but listening to the sounds of the waterfall while the birds chirp their chorus brings me an enormous amount of solace. Of course, a glass of bubbly in hand amplifies the entire experience.
Although Prosecco remains our family’s favorite porch pounder, in the heat of the summer, we consume enough to float a battleship. This time of year, I lean toward a well-priced traditional method sparkling called Crémant. These wines are created the same way as Champagne, where the second ferment takes place in the very same bottle that you fill your glass with. Crémant, however, is made from different regions all over France, not within Champagne, so may not use that name.
I find that Loire makes some of my favorite Crémant so I recommend Ackerman Crémant de Loire Brut NV ($25). This wine is a blend of 70% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, and 10% Cabernet Franc. The fine caressing bubbles (mousse), the bright nervy acidity and the combination of orchard, red berry and citrus fruits, make this an easy sipper, especially at that price point.
As everyone’s genetic predisposition for taste is hardwired different, perhaps you’d rather a bit of residual sugar in your beverage. Before rolling your eyes and judging a person that prefers “sweet” wine, know that they probably have the ability to perceive bitterness at a lower threshold. So, they can actually taste better than you can. Also, some of the most difficult to produce, expensive and sexiest wines on the planet have exorbitantly high residual sugars.
I’ll climb down from the lofty heights of my soap box long enough to suggest Moncalvina Moscato d’ Asti 2023 ($17). This 100% Moscato Bianco has orchard blossom aromas along with candied peach and pear notes. The sweet frothy palate makes this wine easy to gulp, and at only 5% abv, you may guiltlessly do so with blatant disregard. Moscato wines also pair wonderfully when accompanying food with high aromatics (Thai or Indian).
Even though it eludes me, there might be an occasion when bubbly doesn’t fit your mood, yet you still crave a refreshing porch sipper. As a self-professed acidophile, high acid whites are some of my favorite pop, pour and pound wines. Not only are they incredibly refreshing but also have a tremendous versatility with food pairings. I love a wine that can be sipped before a meal and also carried with you to the food trough.
Marius César Pouilly Fumé 2022 ($22) has a nose with herbal, honeydew and yellow apple aromas but the palate is all about the mineral-laden acidity causing the fruit to perceive more citric in nature. This Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc may be one of the best wines to pair with pretty much any (edible) ocean mollusk. As we are still in months with an “r” the local clams and oysters are still on the menu.
For my red wine-swilling, animal-eating grill-cooking brethren, fret not, I have a wine for you as well. Blaufränkisch is one of the most popular Austrian black grape varieties, also seen under the aliases of Kékfrankos and Lemberger. Domestically, Washington State has the greatest area under vine of this variety, and from personal experience, they may even do a better job than its homeland Austria.
One of my personal favorites is Two Mountain Lemberger 2021 ($28) for the complexity and well-integrated tannin structure. The nose has white pepper, currant, blackberry and a slight purple floral note. The palate has more elderberry and boysenberry wrapped around a strong juicy acid core. This wine would go well with most grilled meat, maybe even groundhog. My favorite pairing with this style of wine remains a slow-cooked pork barbecue.
As we are right in between the cold season and pollen season, now is the best time for grilling and porch loitering, even with our bipolar weather. Do not let the predictions of that little whistle pig dampen your open-air endeavors. Use these wine selections to enhance the enjoyment of your favorite outdoor areas.