There are many holidays that hold such eidetic memories that, by compulsory desire, we feel the need to reanimate them through a series of small “must do” actions.  Endearingly referred to as tradition, Thanksgiving seems to be one of the most family-centric of these; mandating protocols down to gravy bowl selection and family seating charts.

Even though many of us enjoy a commonality of beliefs and customs through associations of geography, nationality or fraternity, some of the strongest generational traditions differ widely between families. Although it would be near impossible to encompass what this holiday means to every American, perhaps an introduction to the ghosts of my Thanksgiving past, will stir some personal repressed family nostalgias. As from my childhood recollections, the imbibements of the past dinners included only wines by the jug and liquor with a “handle,” my stroll will merge menu and mayhem of yesteryear with wines of today.

Pre-Dinner

From the time family and holiday orphaned friends arrive, the gluttony commences. The pre-dinner eating and drinking has potential to be the best time of the entire shindig. A few fold-out tables protected with cheap plastic table cloths and covered with a cornucopia of dips, cheese plates and waves of hot appetizers flowing from the linoleum floored kitchen.

Sparkling

It is hard to believe that this could be improved upon but, as we well know, sparkling wine makes everything better. The small beautiful caressing bubbles and slight bready note of a traditional method sparkling wine seem to cleanse the soul and give the foreshadowing of a good time. These wines also have such a wide array of pairing capabilities that the chef will have a creative carte blanche with just about any pre-meal appetizer they can dream up.

It would be a good idea to have a white and rosé available as some guests may not like sparkling wine. How these people made your guest list is another story but understandably we do not choose our family. Rather than getting caught up with serving different whites and rosé wines based on preferences or food pairings, I suggest picking up one white and one red (multiple bottles of each of course) that have a wide appeal and broad food pairing spectrum.

White

For a white wine choice, I love a Chardonnay. The collective 40% of the people that groaned and sneered belong to a group that have unfounded misconceptions about this variety. Chardonnay itself is a relative tabla rasa (a blank slate), thus often referred to as a winemaker’s grape. I do wholeheartedly agree with the disgruntled group when those bad people tried to pass off buttery high alcohol oak water as Chardonnay. Bourbons should be in oak, butter should be on biscuits, and wine should be in your glass.

Rosé

A rosé wine gets its color from limited skin contact during production. The grape variety, residual sugar and production methods all play into the personality of the final wine. In this instance, where we want to be able to slurp it on its own, with appetizers and even with our main course, I look for a rosé that is light and bright, unlike some of our family members. Usually, red grape varieties that have smoother tannin profiles make these types of rosés.

Main Course(s)

Finally, the main course is on the precipice of coming out so the guests are herded to their assigned table spots. A seat at the big table was a luxury as there were only so many seats and too many relatives. Some of my Thanksgiving PTSD derives from being relegated to the shanty town of card tables with the other peasants. Many years later and after the death of a few relatives I was finally promoted. Pardon for the necessary therapeutic digression.

Having a few bottles of good Pinot Noir would have made that fold out chair a bit more tolerable. Good Pinot Noir, especially from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, just reminds me of Autumn. That slight forest floor quality and bright berry fruit allows it to pair with a wide range of Thanksgiving fare. Regardless of how you prepare that big bird (smoked, fried or baked), Pinot will partner well. Even if your tradition deviates to goose or duck, Pinot has you covered. The true strength is its ability to go with all those foods then accompany you to the quite after dinner place and transition to your contemplation wine.

I hope my amalgamations of Thanksgivings past with the addition of modern wine has rekindled your nostalgia for our favorite eating holiday. May all your Thanksgivings be bountiful with a seat at the big table. Happy Thanksgiving!

Suggested Wines:

Soter Estates Extra Brut Sparkling third edition NV ($70)

The third edition of the Brut Reserve is a multi-vintage, multi-variety, and multi-vineyard blend; a testament to the ability of the winemaker.  The grapes hail from the certified Organic Tarren Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills (60%) and their flagship Biodynamic farm, Mineral Springs Vineyard (40%), in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA Mineral Spring Vineyard. This 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay consists of 60% from the 2019 vintage, 16% from 2018, and the remainder from reserve wine.

The barrel aging of the base wine and extended lees contact of this traditional method sparkling give a level of complexity and texture that cannot be overstated. Aromas of orchard fruit (apple, pear), citrus (tangerine) and red fruit (cherry), and autolytic (baked bread) emerge from the glass. The palate shows very fine caressing silky textured bubbles and a roundness that creates a sexy mouthfeel. The tart and crunchy acidity has the flavors leaning more toward green apple, tangerine pith, crunchy white cherry and a slight nuttiness on the finish. Pair with baked brie en croûte with cranberries and almonds, chilled shrimp or just family and friends.

Stoller Family Estate Dundee Hills Chardonnay 2022 ($40)

This blend of four chardonnay clones thrives in the Jory volcanic soil on this estate. The wine is fermented and aged in concrete vessels for ten months then sees an additional eight months in stainless steel on the lees (expired yeast).  These interesting winemaking decisions translate to the final wine through texture and added complexity.

The nose has aromas of ripe orchard fruit (peach, apricot), citrus (lime zest), floral (pear blossom), and an interesting petrichor (wet stone) element. The palate is dry with a broad, vibrant, prickly acid core. There are flavors of brined citrus (lime, tangerine), orchard fruit (apricot, pear), and a buttery almond cookie note. The petrichor emerges on the finish as a chalky stony mineral undertone. Pair with clams casino, oyster dressing, post-thanksgiving turkey sandwich (butter on one side, mayo on the other), like mom used to make.

Stoller Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Rosé 2023 ($28)

This Pinot Noir was sourced from vineyards throughout the valley that were intentionally farmed for rosé. The juice sees only a few hours of skin contact and, post ferment, a few months of lees contact. The nose has crunchy red fruit (cherry, strawberry), melon rind, and citrus (blood orange). The palate is dry with scandalous mouth-watering acidity that begs for food. The flavors are similar to the nose with the blood orange citrus notes crescendoing. Pair this with anything from bacon wrapped appetizers, fried turkey or grilled trout, for the pescatarians.

Flâneur Cuvée Constantin Pinot Noir 2021 ($50)

This Pinot Noir is a blend of two different vineyards: 76% La Belle Promenade Vineyard, with high elevations and volcanic soils and 24% Flânerie Vineyard, with a warmer microclimate and sedimentary soils. The wine sees 41% whole cluster press and a judicious and refreshing decision of 15% new oak.

The nose boasts of mixed berry fruit (blueberry, strawberry, raspberry), floral (blueberry blossom, rose petal), spice (allspice), forest floor (wet leaf pile after a rain), and dried tea leaves. The palate is dry with sturdy tannins with a velvet texture. The flavors mirror the nose with the spice taking the lead role. The tart acidity gives the wine a freshness and palate cleansing feel. Pair with roasted turkey, butternut squash or ham spiked with cloves (lose the pineapple).

Soter Vineyards Estates Pinot Noir 2022 ($60)

This 100% Pinot Noir is a blend of grapes from three vineyards: 20% Mineral Springs Vineyard, Yamhill-Carlton, 50% Ribbon Ridge Estate, and 30% Tarren Vineyard, Eola-Amity Hills. The process involves 25% whole cluster use and aging 10 months in French Oak (30% new). The wine sees extended maceration time, which is evident by its boldness.

The nose has a complex array of intense berry (boysenberry, black currant), plum, sweet baking spice (nutmeg, cinnamon), and pencil shavings. The palate is dry with a broad tart acidity and perceptible sturdy tannins. This is one of the boldest and biggest Pinot Noir wines I’ve had from the valley. Pair with bacon wrapped venison loin, duck breast with black currant sauce, or any bechamel with nutmeg (mac & cheese or potatoes au gratin).