The southeastern portion of the country does not rely on a furry little creature to determine the advent of Spring. Rather, we have the benefit of nature herself announcing the arrival with the yellow-green dusting of our vehicles and porches. Pollen remains the seasonal bane of a Southerner’s existence, offering little reprieve until the gamete spreading has completed and the plants are smoking their proverbial cigarettes. Although unable to stop this flow of nature, I can offer slight relief in the way of refreshing adult beverages.

Even though the wine obstinate will consume their usual choices regardless of the time of year or weather, I find most of us are, what I refer to as, “seasonal drinkers.” With the increase in temperatures and ramping up of outdoor activities, I admit my personal consumption leans more in the direction of white wines. Many wines in this category are misunderstood and underappreciated but for the savvy wine-buyer, some delicious wines can be found at extremely wallet-friendly prices.

Pinot Grigio

Pinot Grigio was one of the biggest benefactors of the taste profile shift that occurred in the 1980s.  Consumers turned away from the heavily oaked and buttery Chardonnay searching for a bright, acidic and thirst-quenching alternative, and Pinot Grigio fit the profile. This natural mutation of Pinot Noir has been well documented for centuries before becoming one of our most popular white grape varieties.

Unfortunately, when popularity of any wine rises, producers want to jump on the bandwagon and stimulate sales by capitalizing on these trends, resulting in many lackluster examples. Northeastern Italy, however, produces some of the best wines relative to this style (Pinot Gris being the other stylistic example). The quality-driven wines from this area showcase the vibrant electric acid structure that us salivating acidophiles love so much.

Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc was yet another variety that greatly benefitted from the anti-Chardonnay movement. Although grown in many areas of France, especially Loire Valley, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc became all the rage. The combination of bright acidity, a slight pungency and easily to understand labeling endeared these wines to our domestic market.

The United States has been the largest importer of New Zealand wines over the last ten years. Of all the white wines exported from the Kiwi’s, 90% by volume is Sauvignon Blanc. This demonstrates how much of this (New Zealand based) variety we consume. Rightfully so as these wines, when concocted by a quality producer, can certainly be a serendipitous find.

Vermentino

Although Piedmont and Tuscanny’s wine culture gained world notoriety largely from their red varieties, the white wines here remain some of their best kept secrets. One such variety, Vermentino, actually has more planted in France under the name Rolle than in its home country of Italy.

The grape’s ability to thrive in Mediterranean climates, demonstrate heat tolerance and a resistance to drought have endeared it to domestic growers. Wine producers appreciated its fresh, aromatic, food-friendly nature with the added appeal of feeling a bit more exotic. For this reason, we see this grape’s vineyard appearance increasing in states such as California, Texas, Oregon, Virginia, North Carolina, and New Mexico. In these domestic settings, Vermentino has received better treatment than much of its European brethren. Thus, we see resultant wines that are complex, interesting yet still maintain varietal integrity, like that wonderful slight bitter nut finish.

Chenin Blanc

Chenin Blanc remains one of the most underrated and versatile varieties. This grape has multiple personalities from the bone dry and ethereal Savennieres to the botrytis affected dessert wines of Quarts de Chaume. Some regions within the Loire Valley, Chenin’s spiritual home, even produce delicious sparkling versions.

South Africa has seen success with this grape as well, becoming their most grown white variety and most celebrated, in the country. Produced in ranges of styles, similar to the diversity in Loire, more Chenin now comes out of South Africa than anywhere else in the world.

The United States, specifically California, has a tremendous amount of Chenin Blanc under vines. Domestically, however, there exists a dichotomy associated with Chenin production. Although a large amount of Chenin was grown in California, most was relegated to a “workhorse” role only. The high acidity, increased viscosity and interesting aromatics made Chenin an ideal blending partner, especially with overripe Chardonnay.

In recent times, however, Chenin has become more appreciated for its characteristics in varietal wines. For this reason, Chenin replanting saw more attractive locations and thus higher quality grapes produced. For the wineries that followed this path, the higher quality grapes translated to beautiful and complex Chenin Blanc wines. Speaking from first-hand experience, it also led to at least one happier consumer.

So, with the advent of Spring, as you begin to further enjoy some outdoor time, consider adding these interesting and refreshing white wines. Not only will they elevate the enjoyment of your fair-weather activities, they can also function as a palate cleanser for that dreadful dusty pollen.

Suggested Wines

Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio Valdadige, Italy 2023 $25

On first sniff, it becomes evident that this has more going on than many lower quality wines of this variety. There are aromas of orchard fruit (apple), melon rind (honeydew), citrus (tangerine), floral (chamomile) and a slight green woody herbal note. The palate has a juicy citric style of acidity, and the fruit slants more toward the citrus with some tree fruit (apple, pear) still noticeable. The finish is all about the acid, and this palate cleanser is one of the reasons it works so well with a diverse spectrum of foods.

Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc 2024 Marlborough, NZ $20

The overt aromatics seem to leap from the glass showing citrus (grapefruit, lime zest, lemongrass), herbal (freshly cut boxwood), bread crust, and a savory spice element. The palate has a prickly acidity and a textural / viscous enhancement, a nod to the sur lie (expired yeast) ageing. The tropical citrus fruits on the palate are backed up by a slight toasted nut note. This rendition is classic New Zealand with some slight enhancements. At this price point, I may have found my new go-to Sauvignon Blanc.

Avivo White 2022 Lodi, California $24

This 100% Vermentino has a seductive nose of stone fruit (peach, pear), floral (orange pekoe tea), herbal (tarragon), and a crushed oyster shells note. The palate has a brined, sea spray type of acidity. The orchard fruit flavors dance with brined citrus fruits and a wet stone minerality. The finish sees a reemergence of the herbal and toasted nut notes creating a welcomed complexity.

Lange Twins Winery Merrill Vineyard Chenin Blanc 2023 Clarksburg AVA $27

This 100% Chenin Blanc is an acid lover’s dream. The nose shows aromas of orchard fruit (white peach, apricot, apple), raw honeycomb, and savory herb (sage). The palate has an unctuous interesting texture with crescendoing mineral-laden acidity. The flavors mirror the nose with added nectarine, tangerine and tropical melon. The finish pleasantly lingers with an acid-like freshness and minerality. A refreshingly well-made Chenin that pays homage to the variety by not overmanipulating.