Just a few months ago most of us were eagerly awaiting the grace of warmer weather so we could knock the cobwebs off the grill. Now, summer has arrived like a blast furnace and even the most cold-natured sun bunny is wilting in the sub-Sahara heat.

As the mercury rises outside, we are presented with a culinary dilemma. If we choose to cook inside, we risk turning the house into a sauna. The grill option keeps the heat outside, but relies on the sacrifice of bellying-up to the hot coals and sweating from our nether regions. It’s a Hobson’s choice but one we willingly make, bag of charcoal in hand, to perform our Promethean sacrifice.

Arneis

Although there are many potential options for our menu, I prefer to allow the grapes to navigate the culinary journey. Our first choice, Arneis, is native to the Roero Hills of the Piedmont and sometimes called Nebbiolo Bianco; a nod to its more famous regional “roommate.” While Italy is its homeland, Arneis has found new footing on the West Coast of the U.S., particularly in California and the Pacific Northwest.

Remy Wines Arneis Aurora Vineyard 2023 Laurelwood District, Willamette Valley ($35), remains the best domestic Arneis I have ever had and supports my opinion that this region has yet to reach its full potential. This full-bodied white has nuances of fresh cut hay, honeycomb, and orchard blossom. The palate has a mineral-laden acidity and finishes with an interesting and welcomed brined citrus element.

Grilled shrimp skewers with fennel & citrus zest would be a great accompaniment. Arneis loves shellfish, and fennel’s light anise bridges beautifully with the grape’s aromatic profile. The citrus mirrors that of the wine and lifts the dish to meet its vibrant acidity. If you are leaning a bit more on the vegetarian side, I recommend grilled zucchini & asparagus with lemon-herb marinade. Arneis’ acidity cuts through the veggie char elements while drawing out more of the herbal notes in the wine, especially when using tarragon or dill.

Marsanne

Next up is Marsanne, a Rhône variety more often blended than spotlighted. But, in the proper hands and climate, like the heat and wide diurnal temperature variance of the Texas High Plains AVA, this variety can shine solo. Bolen Vineyards Marsanne 2023 ($30) demonstrates the local terroir while allowing the grape to express its classical heritage.

The wine has aromas of honeydew, chamomile, crushed rocks, and “sticking” plaster (in the best possible way). The palate leans more toward orchard (apricot) and citrus (tangerine) fruits, a zippy acidity and slight nutty finish. Marsanne’s full body and viscous texture are a natural with the sweet succulent richness of grilled lobster tails with garlic butter. The acidity of the wine will act as a great palate cleanser between bites. Grilled cauliflower “steaks” with tahini-lemon drizzle works wonderfully as a vegetarian option. Marsanne’s nutty tones are magic with tahini, and the roasted edges of cauliflower mimic meat’s caramelization, matching Marsanne’s depth.

Malbec

As we transition to red wine, Malbec feels like a natural companion for anything cooked over an open flame. Originating in Cahors, southwestern France, Malbec was once relegated as a supporting cast member of 19^th Century Bordeaux blends. It was in Argentina, however, that the variety found its stardom and helped define an entire wine culture. Presently, many regions have Malbec under vine in an attempt to ride the wave of popularity and recognition.

Domestically, the West Coast has had varying successes with Malbec, most notably in Columbia Valley, Washington. These examples tend to be a bit more restrained, elegant and dare I say, sexy. That is exactly how I would describe Two Mountain Vineyard Select Malbec 2022 ($44) from the Yakima Valley. This savory example shows blackberry and blueberry fruit layered with thyme, allspice and a gentle cigar box note. The palate is marked by crunchy acidity and finely resolved, silty tannins that make it a pleasure to sip, even before food enters the picture.

Lamb remains the classic pairing for Malbec and grilling the chops with a blackberry-thyme glaze checks all the right boxes. The wine’s dark fruit and savory spices sync effortlessly with the richness of the meat, while the glaze draws out Malbec’s fruit core and herbal edge. For a satisfying meatless option, try grilled portobello burgers with a balsamic-miso glaze. The mushrooms’ earthiness reinforces the wine’s herbal character and the umami from the glaze pulls the structure into sharp, delicious focus. Serve on brioche with a tuft of arugula, and you may just catch a peppery note in the glass you didn’t notice before; a serendipitous discovery worth chasing again.

Zinfandel

Zinfandel remains one of my go-to choices for foods cooked over fire. While many examples can feel heavy, overly ripe, and burdened with port-like alcohol levels, Chateau Montelena Estate Zinfandel 2022 ($50) from Napa Valley defies the stereotype. The nose is impressively complex, reminiscent of a fruit compote of currant, black raspberry, fig, and blackberry, dusted with clove, pepper and anise. The aromas are rounded out by a pleasant hint of moist pipe tobacco. On the palate, there’s an energetic vibrance that elevates the dried fruits and spices, leading to an interesting cherry cola element on the finish.

This Zinfandel shines alongside barbecue baby back ribs rubbed with smoky chipotle. The wine’s bold fruit complements the sweetness of the sauce, while its peppery spice enhances the smoky, spicy rub in all the right ways. The alternative for your veggie-loving cohorts is grilled eggplant & halloumi skewers with smoked paprika oil. The fruitiness of the wine and the saltiness of the halloumi tempers the bitterness of the charred eggplant while the paprika oil ties directly into Zin’s spicy core.

So, whether you’re flipping shrimp skewers or basting ribs, let the wine do the talking. With the right bottle in hand, grilling becomes less about the heat and more about the harmony between flame, flavor, and the perfect pour.