As the promise of summer lurks ever closer, our beloved miscreants are released from their proverbial day-zoos that we casually refer to as schools. Since your daytime peace will now be replaced with endless hours of ruckus, you may be looking for a solution or at least a modifier to protect that very last nerve. Although decades ago, reference was made to “running for the shelter of her mother’s little helper,” I suggest a soothing sip of serenity to help weather your adolescent storm.

As you have the little devils busy with endless chores to keep them out of trouble, you’ll need a poolside sipper to chill and pour into your sauce box. There are endless possibilities to choose from but my criteria would be drinkable when cold, tangy acidity, and attractively priced. We certainly do not want to have that special expensive bottle in our cups as we attempt to wench our winter-weighted bodies out of that plastic inflatable. Spillage is likely and acceptable as I believe a little wine in the pool helps the chlorine work better.

Pinot Grigio

Pinot Grigio makes the grade for all the qualities mentioned but there are some insipid citrus-water versions lurking out there. Granted, the pool-pounder wines are not ones we would necessarily pontificate over their craftsmanship and complexity but we certainly would like to tell the difference between the wine and our pool water. There remains a much-underappreciated difference between “cheap” and “inexpensive” wines; a difference I exploit as often as I can.

Savoie

When looking at unique quality white wines that cost less than filling up your gas tank, I love the obscure region of Savoie. This French gem lies east of the Rhone River, in close proximity to the Italian and Swiss borders. The picturesque terrain boasts alpine peaks, multiple bodies of water and vineyards over 1800 feet above sea level. Although their production (70% white) accounts for less than 1% of France’s total, the wines here are crisp, mineral-laden, food-friendly and usually extremely well-priced.

One of my favorite aspects about Savoie is the ability to taste some relatively unusual grape varieties. As twenty-three varieties are permitted, you will recognize some old favorites like Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gamay, and Pinot Noir. I relish seeking out the more obscure like Jacquere, Altesse and Chasselas (for white) along with Mondeuse and Persan (for red).

In the event that you are not of the acidophile ilk and prefer something a bit sweeter in taste, I have a wine for you as well. Some sadly turn their pretentious noses up at any wine with residual sugar but they aren’t the boss of us. These wines can be fun and refreshing, especially when containing some spritz from petillance (lazy bubbles).

Brachetto

The Brachetto variety makes wines from Piedmonte, Italy that have interesting aromas and flavors, varying amounts of sparkling fizz, and appreciable sweetness on the palate. These factors, along with lower alcohol levels, make them a great choice to chill and sip or even as the base for sparkling cocktails. As a bonus tip, you’d be hard pressed to find a better wine when pairing dark chocolate desserts.

Although I preach on drinking diversely, there are some that are steadfast on their consumption parameters. I have many beverage acquaintances that will drink only red and for them I have to make concessions. Although I do drink every style of wine during every season, I do have some difficulty drinking a large red wine when sweating from my nether regions.

For the sake of argument, we will say the rug rats have finished their chores and have earned their dinner portions. After that tough day of laying out by the pool, and while in the luxury of your airconditioned abode, you have earned your evening bottle of red. While your ribeye sears on the grill, and the hot dogs heat up for the kids, you can open your evening selection.

Syrah

A well-made Syrah can accompany your food or be a great contemplation wine. I shy away from the high alcohol hot-climate versions and tend to either go Northern Rhone or, if I wish to stay domestic, the Pacific Northwest. Cooler climates, in my opinion, produce a Syrah with more nuanced aromatics and overall, a sexier wine.

Admittedly, I love Syrah produced in Washington State, but recently have discovered the well-kept secret of Willamette Valley Syrah. Pinot Noir remains the success story and the token grape of Willamette, but quality Syrah produced in that same region eluded me until now. Granted, there are only slightly more than 300 acres under vine in all of Oregon, but these wines are worth seeking out as some of the best domestic Syrah I’ve had the pleasure of tasting.

So, the kids home during the day doesn’t have to obliterate your peaceful chi. With the proper motivation and liquid assistance, you can lighten the impact of summer break. Following my road map of consumption, you have poured a least four glasses in your gob, and are ready to lay down and dream of that first day of school. I can almost hear that bell ringing now.

 

Suggested Wines

Charles Smith Pinot Grigio 2021               Ancient Lakes, Columbia Valley $13

This 100% Pinot Grigio hails from the Evergreen Vineyard and has aromas of orchard fruit (pear, apple), floral (jasmine), and citrus (lemon grass). The palate is dry with an up front, citrus-driven acid structure. The palate shows flavors mirroring the nose with an increased citrus (lemon / lime) element. The wine is a great poolside sipper or pair with goat cheese, lemon-pepper chicken or grilled trout.

Cuvée Gastronomie White 2022               Savoie, France   $16

From the Cru area of Apremont area of Savoie, this 100 % Jacquere variety has slight orchard fruit (peach), citrus (lime), crushed stone, and a white floral note. The palate is dry with a broad mineral-laden acid structure and an evident elevation in viscosity. There are flavors of orchard (pear), brined citrus fruit (tangerine), and a melon element. The wine finishes with a crescendo of mineral and brine. Although great on its own, this pairs well with regional cheeses (raclette and fondue) and seafood dishes (garlic butter shrimp).

 Alasia Brachetto d’Acqui 2021                   Piedmonte, Italy              $15

The 100% Brachetto from the Monferrato Hills of Piedmonte is fermented in a pressurized tank and arrested to leave 5.5% ABV and approximately 100g/l residual sugar. The nose has overt aromas of red fruit (strawberry, raspberry) and floral (rose petals, violet). The palate has evident residual sugar but remains well-balanced with a fresh acidity and a spritzy mouth-feel. The flavors of candied red fruit and floral notes carry through to the palate. You can chill and sip, pair with flourless chocolate torte, or use as a base for a punch or cocktail.

Compris Vineyard Midnight Journey Syrah 2021               Chehalem Mountains   $50

The wine is a co-fermentation of 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier. The nose is complex with aromas of fruit (blackberry), baking spice (anise, allspice), black pepper, cedar box, coco powder, and a meaty element. The palate is dry with tart fresh acidity and silky well-integrated tannins. There are flavors of blackberry, strawberry, baking spices and coco powder. Powerful enough to stand up to food (grilled meat, venison au poivre, duck) and sexy enough to drink by itself.